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How To Stick Weld
Stick welding is one of the oldest and most certainly one of the most widely used welding methods across various industries. The advantages include low cost, high versatility, speed, and penetration, making it a favorite in multiple industrial applications.
However, Stick welding can also be highly versatile for home and DIY projects and on-field repairs. That's why, in this article, we'll delve into the core principles, equipment selection, safety measures, and step-by-step techniques on how to Stick weld. Once you get the hang of it, you can achieve strong, durable welds with this versatile and enduring welding process.
What Is Stick Welding And How Does It Work?
Stick welding (Shielded Metal Arc Welding or Manual Metal Arc welding) is one of the oldest metal joining methods. A power source (Stick welder) utilizes electrical power to create an arc between the consumable electrode and the workpiece.
The welding is initiated once you close the circuit by touching the base metal with the electrode, and the electrode starts burning. As it burns, the electrode melts and penetrates the pieces. The molten metal solidifies into a joint and fuses two parts, creating an everlasting bond.
Unlike MIG or TIG welding, Stick welding utilizes self-shielded electrodes. The filler metal is covered in flux, which melts during the process and creates a protective layer of slag. As a result, the weld is protected from atmospheric contamination, and you don't need to use a shielding gas. The flux forms a layer of slag that easily peels once you've completed your welds.
Source: https://www.corrosionpedia.com/stick-welding-a-comprehensive-guide-to-a-very-popular-welding-process/2/6885
Shielded Metal Arc Welding Equipment
Before learning how to Stick weld, you'll first need to get familiar with stick welding equipment. Understanding how each piece of equation works will significantly help you master and understand how the entire Stick welding process works.
Unlike TIG and MIG welding, Stick welding equipment is significantly more straightforward and cheaper. You will take little to no time to get everything set up and ready to weld. The essential parts of Stick welding equipment are:
- Stick welder
- Electrode Holder
- Stick Electrodes
Source: Introducing YesWelder Firstess CT2050 (YesWelder YouTube Channel)
Stick Welder (Power Supply)
A stick welder is a welding machine or power source that converts input power from the grid or a generator to provide welding output power. Stick and TIG welding are manual welding processes, which means you control the arc length (or welding voltage) by manipulating the welding rod. Meanwhile, the Stick welder must provide constant current power. As a result, you set the amperage, and the welder keeps it consistent while you manipulate voltage manually.
Stick welders are relatively simple little machines that are easy to use and set up. Unlike with TIG welder, you only get a few controls, which makes them reasonably cheap. The low cost/ high versatility ratio is why many use stick welders, even though there are much more advanced welders.
Electrode Holder
Like a TIG torch or MIG gun, an electrode holder is a simple accessory that holds the consumable electrode. There are several types of stick electrode holders available, but as a beginner in America and Europe, you are likely to use and encounter tongs or crocodile-style holders.
Meanwhile, welders in Australia usually prefer a twist lock holder with a square opening on top. Both will do the same job - clamp and hold the electrode while you weld. The final choice will depend on your personal preferences.
Source: Introducing YesWelder Firstess CT2050 (YesWelder YouTube Channel)
Stick Electrodes
Stick welding electrodes are consumable equipment that will melt and fuse the pieces. Compared to MIG wire, these electrodes contain a layer of flux that protects the weld pool from contamination, so you don't need external shielding gas. That's why this type of welding is sometimes referred to as flux shielded Arc welding.
Stick Electrodes differ in type, coatings, and diameter, so choosing the right one can take time and effort for beginners. As a rule of thumb, you must select the electrode diameter according to the thickness of the weld metal, with a similar composition as the metal you are welding, but that can be tricky.
The American Welding Society classified all the electrodes to simplify electrode selection. As a result, electrodes are categorized into big groups, such as electrodes for steel, aluminum, or stainless steel (AWS 5.1, 5.2,5.3, 5.4), but they can differ in coating, position, and more.
So, for example, on the market, you can see an electrode classified as E6013.
- The "E" indicates electrode,
- The first 2 digits refer to the tensile strength; in our example, 60 means 60,000 ksi,
- The 3rd digit indicates the welding position; in our example, 1 means all positions,
- The 4th digit indicates the composition of flux coating and the current; in our example, 3 means AC, DCEP, DCEN, and rutile-base rod
How To Stick Weld - Step By Step Guide For Beginners
Now that you understand how Stick welding equipment works, it is time for the central part of the article - learning how to Stick welding. Compared to MIG welding, Stick/Arc is considered a bit more challenging, as it takes time to master the technique. Compared to TIG, SMAW is somewhat easier to perform but requires less time spent in preparation.
Stick Welding Safety
Welding is a hazardous profession, so welding safety shouldn't be disregarded. Stick welding in industrial applications is often performed at exceptionally high amperages, such as 400 amps, so it takes effort and the right safety equipment to avoid burns. Meanwhile, your hobby stick welding typically stays under 200 amps, but the heat and radiation from the arc can still cause damage.
AP-1166 Heat Resistant Welding Gloves
That's why you want to make sure your skin and eyes are well protected. Protective equipment for Stick welding includes thicker gloves, a leather jacket, face, head and neck protection, and long sleeves. Welding helmets for Stick welding should support higher shades such as DIN 12, 13, or 14, which can protect your eyes at amperage higher than 400 amps.
LYG-M800HP True Color View Auto-Darkening Welding Helmet
Stick Weld Preparation
Stick welding is often preferred due to lower requirements for weld preparation. Many welders use Stick welding since it can burn through light layers of dirt, rust, or contamination, which is ideal for on-field, garage, or farm repairs. Still, you can always clean the pieces with a wire brush prior to welding to reduce the risk of weld contamination, but in many applications, it won't be needed.
On the other hand, Stick welding is often used in industrial applications involving thicker pieces or pipeline welding. When welding thicker parts, you must bevel the weld joint and leave a root pass. Doing so will allow you to weld multiple passes and fill the larger gap to ensure the desired weld strength. As a beginner, you are less likely to deal with multi-pass stick welding immediately, but soon enough, you will need to know how to bevel, use a root pass, fill passes, and a cap pass.
Choosing The Right Electrode
Choosing the Stick electrode can be a daunting task for a beginner since you'll need to adjust composition, flux, positions, and diameter according to your base metal. There are over 100 different types classified by the AWS. However, when welding carbon steel, you will likely use several types, such as E6010, E6011, E6013, E7016, E7018 & E7024.
- E6010: is an all-position, DC-only rod that produces deep penetration and fast-freeing cellulose flux. Due to high penetration, this is a common root pass electrode for thicker steel, but it can be hard to run on inverter welders or for beginners. However, due to high penetration, it can burn through fast and light contaminants with ease.
- E6011: this is another mild-steel, all-position cellulose electrode, but compared to E6010, it is designed primarily for use on AC power sources. It produces a strong arc force for deep penetration and a fine spray transfer that enhances operator appeal.
- E6013: This one is considered the best electrode for beginners. This is an all-around, rutile-based stick rod that can be used with DCEP, DCEN & AC, and in all positions. It produces a highly forgiving arc that suits novices, but it lacks penetration on thicker pieces compared to E6010.
- E7016/E7018 are low-hydrogen AC/DC electrodes for the one-sided welding of pipes and general structures. The root penetration is good, leaving a flat bead with easily removable slag. The stable arc and the well-balanced slag system make the electrode easy to weld in all positions. However, due to the composition of the coating, you must use them fast or store them in an electrode oven.
- E7024 is a high-speed, iron powder and heavy-coated electrode for high deposition rates on horizontal and downhill welding. Welders use it in applications where you need to deposit large amounts of molten metal fast.
Keep in mind that AWS also classifies stainless steel electrodes, aluminum electrodes, and electrodes for low alloy steel. The stick is a less popular method for these metals, but you can occasionally use E308/E309L rods for stainless steel repair or E4043 electrodes for aluminum.
Stick Electrode Diameter
Besides the composition and flux coating, you should also choose the diameter according to the thickness of the base metal. The diameter of the electrodes can range from 1/16" and 5/64" up to 3/16″ and higher. In reality, as a beginner, you are likely to use 3/32″, 1/8″, and 5/32" electrode diameters. These will cover most of your hobby, DIY, and home projects.
As a rule of thumb, like with other processes, you will need to select one size smaller electrode diameter than your base metal. For example, if the base metal is 1/8″ thick, you should use a 3/32″ rod, and so on, up to 3/16" and for standard welds (single pass, butt joint welds). Once the thickness is over 3/16", you should bevel the pieces, and weld with smaller size rods.
Setting Up The Machine
Once you've prepared the pieces and chosen the electrode, you should set up your stick welder. As noted, these are fairly simple and cheap machines, which means it won't take too much time or skill to set them up and use. Stick machines provide a constant current to produce a continuous electric arc, so you will commonly find only one knob that will help you adjust the amperage.
The required amperage will depend on the electrode diameter and manufacturer, so make sure you follow the instructions on the box. For example, E6013 electrodes for beginners with 3/32" diameter will require 40-90 amps, 1/8" will need 80-130 amps, and 3/16" require 150-230 amps. Still, the requirements may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer and electrode type, so these are just the common examples.
You can get to the proper amperage by observing your weld bead. If the electrode excessively sticks to the base metal, and your arc keeps extinguishing or wandering, your amperage is too low. Meanwhile, if your weld puddle is too fluid, your electrode chars when it's only half gone, or the arc sounds louder than average, your amperage might be set too high. So we recommend you start from the recommended amperage and work your way up to the best results.
Advanced Features
Besides amperage, Stick welding machines such as YesWelder YWA-160 will also provide some advanced features such as anti-stick, hot start, VRD, and optional arc force. Each of these will help you fine-tune the arc and get the best results.
YesWelder YWA-160 IGBT Inverted Stick Welder
- Hot start: this feature provides an initial boost of current when striking the arc. Adjusting it can be advantageous when welding a cold plate, where it provides excellent arc ignition, avoiding electrode sticking and any metallurgical defect in the weld.
- Arc force: this feature will help you fight voltage fluctuations that result from inconsistent technique or initial issues with the current. The machine temporarily increases the output current during welding when the arc is too short, increasing the arc stability and allowing you to burn notorious E6010s on your inverter stick welder.
- Anti-stick: minimizes the short circuit current in case the electrode sticks to the workpiece for a prolonged period. If a short circuit does occur, you can easily remove the electrode from the workpiece.
- VRD (Voltage Reduction Device): is a safety feature that reduces the open circuit voltage (OCV). In stick welding, the open circuit is established as soon as you turn on the machine. The OCV needs to be high to ensure a reliable arc start, but it can shock you when you touch both parts of the circuit (electrode and base metal). The VRD reduces the OCV to a safe level (typically 13 volts), but it senses once you are about to start a welding arc and increases it to provide reliable starts.
Source: https://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-open-circuit-voltage.php
Stick Welding Polarity
Stick welding is one of the few processes that can successfully utilize DCEP, DCEN, and AC polarity. The way you set up your electrode and ground clamp will mostly depend on your needs and the electrode type. Specific electrodes work better at DCEP, some on DCEN, and in particular cases, you will need to switch to AC, so make sure you check the manufacturers' recommendations.
DCEP, or Direct Current Electrode Positive, involves setting up your electrode holder in a positive terminal and ground clamp on the negative terminal. DCEP was also historically known as Direct Current Reverse Polarity (DCRP) or simply "Reverse " polarity since the electrons run from the negative to the positive side of the cycle (from base metal to electrode). In Stick welding, DCEP results in approximately 10% greater penetration, and it will cover most of your welding needs.
DCEN or Direct Current Electrode Negative polarity includes setting your electrode to the negative side of the cycle and ground to the positive side of the cycle. This is called Straight polarity, as electrons run from an electrode into the weld metal. As a result, DCEN in Stick welding results in reduced penetration and a reduction in dilution of the weld metal, but it can be helpful when welding thinner pieces or when there is a risk of burn-through.
AC current is rarely used in Stick welding, but it can be helpful when fighting the arc blow. Arc blow is a specific issue that occurs once when the arc stream is deflected forward or backward and does not follow the shortest path between the electrode and the workpiece. This occurs due to the magnetic or thermal properties of base metal, and switching to alternating current can help, but it can show inconsistent results and arc stability otherwise.
Stick Welding Techniques
The stick welding process is known as manual welding, which means you'll need to manually control all parameters, including the correct arc length, working angle, travel angle, and travel speed. That makes stick welding one of the more challenging processes to master, but with some time, practice, and patience, you can learn the stick welding basics and master the control over the weld bead.
Arc length: the arc length represents the distance between your electrode and welding joint, and with stick welding, the proper arc length shouldn't be longer than the core diameter of your rod. A length that is too low (low voltage) will cause erratic arc, sticking, or crowned beads. Too high arc length (high voltage) will cause lots of spatter, lack of penetration, and porosity.
Travel angle: travel angle is the angle at which you move your stick welding rod across the joint. Stick welding in the flat and horizontal positions uses a drag or backhand welding technique. The correct travel angle should be approximately 5 to 15 degrees. Meanwhile, vertical up will call for push or forehand technique and tilt the top of the electrode 0 to 15 degrees.
Photo by @livtaylordodge (TikTok)
Work angle: the work angle is an angle between the weld axis and the electrode axis. In stick welding, your work angle will depend on the welding position. For example, when welding on fillet joints at 90 degrees, your work angle should be 45 degrees. Similarly, when welding the butt joint at 180 degrees, the work angle should be 90 degrees.
Electrode manipulation: the way you manipulate the electrode is something you will develop and practice over the years. Each welder has their personal preferences, but there are some rules. For example, as a beginner, you are likely to use straight beads to weld metals of 1/4 inch and thinner. However, things get tricky once you must fill larger joints or work in uncomfortable positions such as vertical up, overhead welding, and more. In that case, you will need to use weaving, whipping, triangular waves, Z weaves, and more.
Source: https://weldguru.com/welding-beads/
Travel speed: consistency is crucial in achieving strong stick weld. You want to keep your travel speed moderate. Going too slow will produce more heat into a joint, leading to a wide, convex bead, and in some cases, the weld can just sit on top, not penetrate the welds. Meanwhile, going too fast will result in a lack of penetration or lack of fusion since you're not allowing the electrode to penetrate both pieces properly.
When starting your first stick weld, try to keep all the things noted above in moderation. Practice on scrap metal and slowly work your way up to the main pieces. Stick welding can be hard, so it might take time to master the proper welding technique.
Post Weld Cleaning
Stick welding is not known for its cleanliness, so the appearance and quality of the finished weld usually come short compared to TIG or MIG. The less time spent in pre-weld preparation in cleaning will result in more time spent post-cleaning the welds. Therefore, stick welding through rust, dirt, or paint will create lots of spatter that you need to clean.
Don't forget the slag. As the flux-covered electrode burns, it will create a layer of slag that protects the weld puddle from contamination. The thickness of the electrode coating depends on the electrode's purpose, but one thing is common - you should remove slag after welding. Removing the slag is especially important in multi-pass applications, where leftover slag can cause inclusions and impact the integrity of the weld. Use a chipping hammer and wire brush to uncover your welds.
Practice, practice, practice!
Stick welding is reasonably straightforward when it comes to equipment selection and setup. Stick welders are usually cheap; you only need safety equipment and electrodes to start welding. Welders typically have only one knob and a couple of additional settings, so they are significantly easier to work with than TIG machines.
However, when it comes to mastering the stick welding basics and techniques, things can get tricky. You must find a perfect balance between travel speed, work angle, travel angle, and electrode manipulation, which can take time and patience.
In the process of learning, you will stick your electrodes and deal with lots of spatter and ugly welds. But once you get it right, you unlock the ability to quickly and cheaply weld and repair any project, regardless of the state of the metal and location.
🧐How To Stick Weld- FAQ
1. What Is stick welding and how does it work?
Stick welding (Shielded Metal Arc Welding or Manual Metal Arc welding) is one of the oldest metal joining methods. A power source (Stick welder) utilizes electrical power to create an arc between the consumable electrode and the workpiece.
The welding is initiated once you close the circuit by touching the base metal with the electrode, and the electrode starts burning. As it burns, the electrode melts and penetrates the pieces. The molten metal solidifies into a joint and fuses two parts, creating an everlasting bond.
2. How to choose stick electrode diameter?
Besides the composition and flux coating, you should also choose the diameter according to the thickness of the base metal. The diameter of the electrodes can range from 1/16" and 5/64" up to 3/16″ and higher. In reality, as a beginner, you are likely to use 3/32″, 1/8″, and 5/32" electrode diameters. These will cover most of your hobby, DIY, and home projects.
As a rule of thumb, like with other processes, you will need to select one size smaller electrode diameter than your base metal. For example, if the base metal is 1/8″ thick, you should use a 3/32″ rod, and so on, up to 3/16" and for standard welds (single pass, butt joint welds). Once the thickness is over 3/16", you should bevel the pieces, and weld with smaller size rods.
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